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Green Friday on Lizard Hill

My dad and I took off the day after Thanksgiving for our own Green Friday adventure to Lizard Hill, a growing-up Christmas tree farm on the Kitsap Peninsula.

The moon was out, and the sky so clear we could see the snow-lined crevasses on the Olympics and the Cascades.

Pelagic cormorants (shown) and double-crested cormorants were abundant on pilings.

I had no idea there was an Atlantic salmon fish-farm named American Gold Seafood on Bainbridge Island! The gulls, however, are well aware.

California sea lions love those buoy haul-outs.

The moist, exposed dirt of Lizard Hill's old roads is the perfect substrate for lichens, such as this freckle pelt (Peltigera britannica).

This cup lichen is one of numerous Cladonia species.

Frog pelt lichen (Peltigera neopolydactyla)?? I'm having fun trying to identify these lichens. The best reference I've found for pelt lichens in the Pacific Northwest is Jason Hollinger's webpage -- if you're ever in the woods with a pelt lichen quandary, I suggest you check it out!

 
Lipstick powderhorn (Cladonia macilenta).

Forking bone lichen (Hypogymnia inactiva). We were lucky to find this on a twig, blown down from high in the trees. I've never seen a lichen like this before!

 I saw several song sparrows and heard from many more. This one defended his territory valiantly against two small, chipping Pacific wrens.

While my dad and I were away from our car, a sly coyote left us this present. Best of all, my dad stepped in it a few minutes later!

We found a wind-felled Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) in the road and decided to adopt her as our Christmas tree.

On our way home, we stopped at Belfair State Park to check out the shoreline. We found lots of killdeers making their two-note keen.

The river was filled with decaying salmon carcasses and one live individual who looked not long for this world.

The salmon attracted a family of bald eagles and countless glaucous-winged gulls.

It was a seaside feast!

The beach was signed for oyster harvesting, but we found only shells. Most marine invertebrates use calcium carbonate (also called calcite) to build their shells and skeletons, but the crystal structure of calcite varies. Crustaceans (crabs, lobsters, and barnacles) use low-magnesium calcite. Corals and molluscs (like this oyster) use aragonite, which is twice as soluble in water than low-magnesium calcite. That's why scientists are worried that corals and molluscs are at heightened risk of dissolving as oceans acidify. But echinoderms (sea stars, sea cucumbers, sea urchins and sand dollars) build their skeletons out of high-magnesium calcite, which is THIRTY times as soluble as low-magnesium calcite! So,  if you're a sea star... drink an extra glass of milk a day?

A pied-billed grebe was hanging out at the Bremerton Ferry Terminal.

These huge plumose sea anemones (genus Metridium) remind me of cauliflower. (Can you find the photographer?)

A female red-breasted merganser joined the party.

This male surf scoter rocks the clown make-up.

On the ferry, this brave boy made friends with a hungry glaucous-winged gull.



Mount Rainier emerged to welcome us back to Seattle as the sun set behind the Olympics. Thanks, Dad, for the awesome Green Friday adventure!

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If You Can Hear Me in the Elevator, Remain Calm: Our LAST DAY on the Alaska Road Trip!

Our last day!

We were eating breakfast in the cafeteria, expecting another leisurely day aboard the Malaspina, when we noticed a metropolitan area out the window. We were arriving in Bellingham already! (Pacific Time is one hour behind Alaska Time, and we had been chugging along with gusto all through the night.)

The last words we heard on the ferry, spoken by our friend the purser over the loudspeaker as crowds of passengers hauled luggage down to the car deck, were these: “If you can hear me in the elevator, we know you are stuck in there. Remain calm. The engineers are on their way.”

Don’t worry – they got the elevator working, and we all left the ferry intact. The hour-and-a-half drive from Bellingham back to Seattle flew by in the blink of an eye, and before we knew it, we were parking a muddy Prius in front of our house.

Three badass ladies made it home.

Unpacking and story telling commenced immediately. We ate tuna-fish sandwiches for lunch with ingredients from a real refrigerator and our own garden. We changed into city clothes, hosed off Prius, and checked the odometer. The total mileage of our grand adventure: 4,189 miles, with an average gas mileage of 45 mpg. Not bad, red Prius, not bad at all.

Hosed off, packed, and ready for college! (We're off to Whitman tomorrow.)

Looking back, we saw a total of 113 bird species (about 10 lifers for each of us), 21 mammals, and 1 amphibian (the wood frog, Alaska’s only amphibian).

The people we met, the lichens we trampled, the dirt we accumulated, the wildlife we watched… the back-country food and unexpected detours… all will make up the stories my mom and I tell for many years to come. Thank you for reading along, commenting with bird identifications, sharing our blog with friends, and joining us on our Great Alaskan Road Trip.

Yours in adventure,
Nina and Jane

THE END


End of day summary:
  • Day of road trip: 18 
  • Start: Malaspina ferry (Queen Charlotte Strait), British Columbia, Canada 
  • Miles traveled: 195 (ferry) 
  • Hours driven: 1.5
  • Favorite bird sighting: common murre
  • End: Seattle, Washington, United States
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    Look's Like the Ventilation's Busted: Day Eighteen on the Alaska Road Trip

    Today belongs to the wildlife. I woke up to a foggy morning filled with the barnacled backs of humpback whales. I was too absorbed to take any photos, but not to worry -- I got plenty of pictures during the day.

    First there were the mammals...

    Harbor seal haul-out.

    Pod of orcas!

    WEEE!

    Male and female orcas in a playful feeding frenzy (just guessing here).

    Sea lions, harbor porpoises, and Dall’s porpoises also made the list.

    And then there were the reptiles.... (Did I say reptiles? I meant... reptiles! Yes, birds are technically considered reptiles these days.)

    Pelagic cormorants.

    Rhinoceros auklet. 

    Common murres.

    A bunch of common murres.

    I guess that's why we call them common!

    We also saw a herring gull, bald eagle, raven, pigeon guillemot, Canada goose, glaucous-winged gull, mew gull, Bonaparte’s gull, belted kingfisher, crow, and the good old rock pigeon.

    I caught up on some blogging.

    My favorite office, the sun deck.

    The trees are getting mossier as we motor south.

    We got in line for lunch in the ship’s cafeteria, but after a few minutes we had to stumble outside for a gulp of fresh air. The cafeteria was filling up with smoke! We looked around for a sign that we should be worried, but the workers just fanned the smoke away from their faces and kept taking orders. The line piled up, the smoke billowed out, and controlled mayhem ensued.

    One chef took charge and began hollering for people halfway down the line to place their orders.

    “Whadaya want?!"

    “Fish and chips!”

    “Fish and chips? You’re number six! NEXT?”

    “Chicken strips!”

    “You’re number four! NEXT?”

    “I don’t know yet!”

    “Well ya better decide!”

    I ended up winning the last order of fried oysters. I took my prize up to the front, eager to leave this smoky hell. The lady at the cash register, suffused in a yellowish-gray cloud, took my money.

    “Hmm. Looks like the ventilation’s busted,” she noted without glancing up.

    I guess you learn to take things in stride when you work on the Alaska Marine Highway.

    A lavender hue before sunset.

    Passengers retreated to their solarium chaise lounges when the sky began to spit.

    Our last sunset on the Great Alaskan Road Trip.

    End of day summary:
    • Day of road trip: 18
    • Start: Malaspina ferry (Ketchikan), Alaska, United States 
    • Miles traveled: 390 (ferry) 
    • Hours driven: 0 
    • Favorite bird sighting: rhinoceros auklet 
    • End: Malaspina ferry (Queen Charlotte Strait), British Columbia, Canada
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      Green Light Over the Ocean: Day Seventeen on the Alaska Road Trip

      Today we traveled on the Alaska Marine Highway.

      Jane at the stern.

      “Wait, but I thought you were on the ferry!” you say. You are correct! The ferry is considered part of the highway system in Southeast Alaska because there’s no other way to get your car around. No roads exist to the towns at which we stopped today: Juneau (where we began last night), Wrangell, Petersburg, and Ketchikan (the last city in Southeast Alaska).

      The shoreline of Wrangell (I think).

      Funny, rounded mountain peaks behind the town.

      I was thrilled to be back on the ferry. I first traveled on this beautiful ship three years ago on the Senior Alaska Trip. In February and March of my senior year, 60 of my best friends and I embarked on a two-week expedition (with many teachers keeping watch) through Yukon, Whitehorse, frozen Lake Laberge, the Alaska Marine Highway, and headmaster Rob’s homestead in remote, rain-forested Ketchikan. That trip was the crowning experience of high school, and it was the inspiration for my mom’s and my great road trip north.

      Throwback to the 2012 Senior Alaska Trip with my bestie Claire (mermaiding on the left). We rocked the puffy.
      Photo credit: Nick Lew.

      Nothing on the trip so far took me back as vividly as did this ferry. The yellow-windowed roof of the solarium (the third-level stern deck where hippies and students sleep under the stars in fleece blankets and tarps), the white-washed metal walls of an old but reliable ship, the underpriced vending machines, the old-fashioned magnetic announcement boards, the tinny loudspeaker announcements, and the stocking-footed elderly couples playing dominoes in the freezing Alaskan air because who would want to be inside on a marvelous day like today? None of these things had changed a bit.

      Today’s voyage felt very different from the Senior Alaska Trip in many ways, too. For one, we had a cabin. We slept under a roof (or, rather, under other bunk beds) and kept our suitcases behind the safety of a locked door rather than sprawled among strangers. We had our own shower, sink, and toilet, so we weren’t running barefooted and damp across the deck looking for our towels and toothbrushes.

      Jane shows off our four-person berth.

      But we did spend as much time as possible outside on deck among the duct-taped tents and readers of Jack Kerouac’s On the Road. After seeing masses of impatient tourists disembark from cruise ships like Norwegian Star and Pacific Princess in Juneau, we were endlessly grateful to be among the down-to-earth passengers of the Alaska Marine Highway.

      Down-to-earth readers of Jack Kerouac in front of the Solarium.

      Kids found endless entertainment (driving toy trucks across the deck), as did Jane (spying on birds) and I (spying on the kids). 

      One of my favorite things about this ferry route is how we are always close to land on both sides. You can’t get bored with a constantly-refreshing view of forest, rocky shores, tucked-away lighthouses, lookouts, and the occasional house.

      Passing landscape.

      It’s the best way to bird-watch, too – you sit still, and the ferry glides by birds at just the right speed for you to identify them!

      A rocky lighthouse-base swarming with surfbirds and ruddy turnstones.

      At one point, a commanding voice spoke over the loud speaker: “This is just a drill.”

      Five minutes later: “Code green, a crew member is missing. I repeat, code green, a crew member is missing. Proceed to search patterns.” Dozens of crew members (who weren’t wearing uniforms, so we hadn’t before realized they were crew) assembled to don red life jackets and hustle around the decks.

      Then: “Code safe, the crew member has been found. Complete all sweeps, then return to muster station.”

      During the afternoon, drills were performed for fire, man overboard, missing crew member, and other emergencies. Every time the alarm bell rang, we had trouble convincing ourselves we should just keep watching the seabirds drift by.

      At our stop in Ketchikan, we found the broken-down Columbia, the ferry on which we had originally been scheduled.

      The night sky was spectacular, and I was a little sad that I wouldn’t be sleeping directly under it. Clear skies laid bare the Big Dipper, the North Star, and Cassiopeia.

      Full moon over the Inside Passage.

      Then, the best surprise of all: northern lights. Green curtains of light swept across the sky as if blown by cosmic wind. Bright pillars shot up from the horizon, then dissipated into a soft ocean of shimmering glow. When the lights were at their brightest green, a thin rim of orange formed on the lower edge, and it was simply breathtaking.

      End of day summary:
      • Day of road trip: 17 
      • Start: Malaspina ferry (Juneau), Alaska, United States 
      • Miles traveled: 305 (ferry) 
      • Hours driven: 0 
      • Favorite bird sighting: surfbirds 
      • End: Malaspina ferry (Ketchikan), Alaska, United States
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