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Showing posts with label alpaca. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alpaca. Show all posts

Exploring the Inca Capitol

On our first full day in Peru, my Australian friend Joel and I took to the city streets. Cusco has a tourist-driven economy and you're likely to see more Gringos than Peruvians in the central square, Plaza de Armas, but once you get off the beaten track you find that Cusco has so much more to offer.

A golden statue of the last Inca in Plaza de Armas.

Locals were often protesting in front of the huge Spanish colonial cathedral.

The city is built of stone: ancient Incan walls perfectly carved with mysterious technologies, colonial churches that have the double meaning for residents of Catholic worship and Spanish conquest, cobblestone streets, rock walls, and oh so many staircases.

A stone arch over the city street, and my friend Joel in the left corner.

A fast-flowing stream contained in a stone channel, between boulder outcroppings and a rock wall.

Stairway to heaven... if your lungs don't collapse before you get there.

The street dogs don't mind the stony sidewalks one bit.

A woman and her lamb lean against a stone wall in downtown Cusco.

The stairs stretch into the heavens, and it's nearly impossible to climb them with so little oxygen in the air. Cusco, at 3800 meters, is the highest city I have lived in, and I was feeling it!

We entered the San Pedro Market for a bit of touristy shopping. I hadn't planned to buy a fuzzy gray llama sweater, a green hat-scarf-combo-garment, rainbow wool socks, a pair of white baby booties made from alpaca hide, or anything else but... when in Cusco, these things happen.

Stacks of touristy alpaca sweaters, racks of sequined girls' dresses, and colorful hand-tailored suits all down the aisle.

Dead animals were conveniently located on the next aisle over.

Flowers took up the next aisle. Then baked goods. Then fruit juice stands. It was very organized.

The craziest thing about the market was the similarity between vendors. Every fruit juice stand provided the same juices for the same prices -- they even used the same signs. The baked good stands were the same way, each offering exactly the same crusty cracker-cookies with sprinkles, the same yellow pink and white meringues, the same flat round loaves of bread. I don't know how each vendor differentiated itself to customers, but someone explained to me that customers have great loyalty to their vendors. Once a woman picks a bakery, for example, she will always return to the same one, and shopkeepers rely on this fact to keep business steady. Totally confusing to a capitalist-minded American girl like me.

We took a walking tour and learned about traditional Peruvian instruments and the unique wooden guitars which emerged through Spanish influence. The small ukulele-like instrument is called a charango.

The more traditional charangos were made out of armadillo shells! 

I spent a whole week in Cusco -- much longer than planned -- because I was feeling sick. First it was a nasty cold, then general altitude malaise, and finally a bacterial stomach bug. Yeesh! As I was healing, I spent many days lounging around the hostel, reading in coffee shops, and buying Christmas presents for my family.

A bonfire with two of the funny Argentine workers at my hostel.

Yes, I paid a couple soles to hold this baby alpaca in a hat. Best money I've ever spent.

Joel couldn't resist the little guy either.

I admit, I frequented the Starbucks in the central plaza. The vente hot chocolate just tastes like home!

While I was shopping for jewelry, a creative saleswoman dressed me up like a Cuscuena. I even have a baby strapped to my back!

One day I decided to be the ultimate tourist and the take the City Tour Bus to the Incan ruins surrounding Cusco. Of course, I had to take the requisite tourist photos.

Qurikancha, a big colonial palace built atop the Incan Temple of the Sun.

The entrance to Sacsayhuamán (often pronounced "Sexy Woman"), a walled Incan battlement overlooking Cusco.

The Incas held together their impressive stone walls with a carved male-female locking system.

The notches and protrusions in the stones are totally hidden once the wall is complete.

Red tile roofs, dusty green hills, and cool sunshine.

Tambomachay, another hilltop ruin with caves and gravity-fed fountains.
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What's for Dinner... Alpaca or Guinea Pig?

After I had spent a month longer than expected in Puerto López, I finally accepted the reality that I wouldn't be going back to the Galápagos Islands for my planned research job. Who knows what went wrong behind the scenes, but the fact was the my visa never arrived, and it wasn't going to.

With that in mind, I had a choice: to remain as a volunteer for Equilibrio Azul for the next month, or to explore somewhere new and spontaneous. It would have been easy to become an official volunteer and hunker down in Turtle House with my friends, but I knew I would always feel a little bitter about missing the Galápagos, so I decided to do something big: I bought a plane ticket to Peru!

I had a couple days to prepare and say goodbye to Puerto López, go birding one last time, take the EcoClubbers on a hike, and complete my first night dive. Then I took a thirteen-hour bus to Quito. Sadly, I propped my backpack at my feet for one hour of the journey, and the opportunistic thief behind me stole all my cash and my camera. Thankfully, he/she left my passport, debit card, and iPhone behind! He/she also left about $2.00 worth of coins which allowed me to buy lunch at a bus stop. There's always that silver lining, right?

I stayed at my favorite hostel in Quito and shared an airport cab the next morning with a couple of Australians. One of them, it turned out, was heading to the same destination as me! Soon enough, my plane was touching down in Cusco, Peru. My taxi friend and I settled into a nice, cheap hostel outside of the main square, Plaza de Armas, and headed out in search of dinner.

For once I was hanging out with a young professional instead of a starving student. We bypassed the $3.00 dinners and made our way to a fancy balcony restaurant with a live Andean pan-flute band in traditional costume. Neither of us could decide between the media cuy (half a guinea pig) and the alpaca en tocino (bacon-wrapped alpaca sirloin), so we ended up splitting both. Good call -- it was the best food I've eaten in my memory!

Photo credit: Joel Cummuskey.

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