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Showing posts with label moss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label moss. Show all posts

Look's Like the Ventilation's Busted: Day Eighteen on the Alaska Road Trip

Today belongs to the wildlife. I woke up to a foggy morning filled with the barnacled backs of humpback whales. I was too absorbed to take any photos, but not to worry -- I got plenty of pictures during the day.

First there were the mammals...

Harbor seal haul-out.

Pod of orcas!

WEEE!

Male and female orcas in a playful feeding frenzy (just guessing here).

Sea lions, harbor porpoises, and Dall’s porpoises also made the list.

And then there were the reptiles.... (Did I say reptiles? I meant... reptiles! Yes, birds are technically considered reptiles these days.)

Pelagic cormorants.

Rhinoceros auklet. 

Common murres.

A bunch of common murres.

I guess that's why we call them common!

We also saw a herring gull, bald eagle, raven, pigeon guillemot, Canada goose, glaucous-winged gull, mew gull, Bonaparte’s gull, belted kingfisher, crow, and the good old rock pigeon.

I caught up on some blogging.

My favorite office, the sun deck.

The trees are getting mossier as we motor south.

We got in line for lunch in the ship’s cafeteria, but after a few minutes we had to stumble outside for a gulp of fresh air. The cafeteria was filling up with smoke! We looked around for a sign that we should be worried, but the workers just fanned the smoke away from their faces and kept taking orders. The line piled up, the smoke billowed out, and controlled mayhem ensued.

One chef took charge and began hollering for people halfway down the line to place their orders.

“Whadaya want?!"

“Fish and chips!”

“Fish and chips? You’re number six! NEXT?”

“Chicken strips!”

“You’re number four! NEXT?”

“I don’t know yet!”

“Well ya better decide!”

I ended up winning the last order of fried oysters. I took my prize up to the front, eager to leave this smoky hell. The lady at the cash register, suffused in a yellowish-gray cloud, took my money.

“Hmm. Looks like the ventilation’s busted,” she noted without glancing up.

I guess you learn to take things in stride when you work on the Alaska Marine Highway.

A lavender hue before sunset.

Passengers retreated to their solarium chaise lounges when the sky began to spit.

Our last sunset on the Great Alaskan Road Trip.

End of day summary:
  • Day of road trip: 18
  • Start: Malaspina ferry (Ketchikan), Alaska, United States 
  • Miles traveled: 390 (ferry) 
  • Hours driven: 0 
  • Favorite bird sighting: rhinoceros auklet 
  • End: Malaspina ferry (Queen Charlotte Strait), British Columbia, Canada
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    Descending the Tundra: Day Nine on the Alaska Road Trip

    Today we took a disco hike.


    No, not a disco like that! Short for “discovery hike,” it’s a Denali National Park thing that's bookable only one day in advance, in person, at the Visitor Center to ensure the hikers have seen the terrain and are still up for it. A ranger takes up to eleven hikers off-trail for the day, always on an original route. Of the two options – “moderate” and “strenuous” – we chose moderate, meaning we would have an elevation change of less than a thousand feet.

    As we got dressed this morning, we kept in mind the 90% chance of rain and decided to put our rain-pants and rain-coats on first thing. As we waited for the notorious green school bus to pick us up, we made friends with some other disco-hikers and realized we would need all the layers we’d brought from Seattle: two shirts, leggings, fleece jackets and pants, parkas, hats, mittens, scarves, and rain gear.

    By chance, our leader, Ranger Jakara, had planned our hike through the tundra near the center of the park, so we ended up taking the bus for three-and-a-half hours – just eight miles shy of yesterday’s destination of Eielson Visitor Center. Unlike yesterday’s wildlife bonanza, today we saw nothing but streaks of mud on the windowpanes, even though we squeegeed them clean at each rest stop.

    Ranger Jakara asked our bus driver, Paul, to let us off at the next gravel turnout to hike up the riverbed. As Paul pulled over, we noticed two other buses on the shoulder.

    “Let’s see what they’re looking at,” said Ranger Jak casually.

    “Want to make sure there’s no grizzlies?” joked Paul.

    “Well, it would be nice…” she replied.

    Indeed, a big brown grizzly was nibbling blue berries right off the road!

    Wet grizzly!

    We decided to drive a little farther down the road before leaving the safety of our bus. Ranger Jak’s safety talk went like this:

    “If you are confronted by a bear, DO NOT RUN! They are predators and will instinctively chase. Stand tall, be big and loud, group together. If you are confronted by a moose, RUN! They are not predators, and they just want you out of there. So get out fast!”

    Of course, most animal encounters will not be confrontations, but distant, peaceful sightings.

    Almost immediately, we spotted four white-butted caribou with short velvety antlers on the ridge, all females or juveniles. I thought they would bolt when they caught sight of us, but they pranced closer with their magical reindeer gait. They seemed to be caught between curiosity and wariness. They would prance closer, then startle themselves at how close they’d gotten, standing alert with pricked ears and nervous shuffling. Then they’d get bold, prance closer, and repeat the process. It was very cute, and a little unsettling, but Ranger Jak said they weren’t dangerous. After a bit they went on their way, as did we.

    Ranger Jak explains bear safety.

    Our goal was to discover our surroundings and play like children. I found a pile of old bear scat full of grass, the bears’ diet in July. Ranger Jak said fresh scat would be pure berries. Then, another hiker found a pile of berry scat! From then on, we went around the corners yelling, “Hey bear! Hi big bear!” to make ourselves especially obvious. We also encountered a spongy scapula (shoulder blade) from some long-deceased mammal, and a femur (thigh bone) from another.

    A spongy scapula.

    A tiny snail was living on it.

    A femur.

    The next treasures we came upon were tracks.

    “Do you know how to tell a caribou footprint from a moose?” asked Ranger Jak. The caribou print is C-shaped due to the animals’ flexible, ice-gripping toes, while the moose print is heart-shaped.

    The best part about the hike was that we had no trail. Denali prides itself as “the park with no trails,” which isn’t completely true, but the rangers did encourage us to walk anywhere, anytime – the green buses will drop off hikers or pick them up anywhere they ask. The key is to spread out over the vast land so that no one area is overly impacted. We picked our way along the rocks of a dry creek bed, then veered to the right to climb a mossy ridge between our drainage and the adjacent one. There, I tucked into a grassy cove to protect myself from the wind and ate my lunch of leftover pad thai.

    Then came the excitement of getting down the other side. The grade was so steep, I easily could have rolled down with accelerating speed, but the thick mat of lichens, club mosses, sphagnum, grass tussocks, and wildflowers gave us good traction to dig our boots into.

    Descending the tundra!

    I could admire a single square foot of tundra groundcover for hours. The diversity of shapes, textures, and colors is mesmerizing.

    Please pardon me as I get a little lichen-crazy. It's just the coolest darn plant-fungus around! Also be aware that my identifications are probably wrong. I'm basing them on this pamphlet: Lichens of the National Forests in Alaska.

    Orange crustose lichen.

    Maybe a Cladonia sp.

    British soldiers, Cladonia bellidiflora.

    More (lumpier) British soldiers.

    Cup lichen, Cladonia sp.

    Moss mixed with Peltigera sp.

    Three baby plants playing nice together.

    Purple gentian.

    White and purple gentian.

    Little white wildflower.

    Cute succulent.

    Tiny hen-and-chick.

    Itty bitty plant.

    Snow or foam lichen, Stereocaulon sp.

    A close-up of a cushion plant, like the ones I saw in the Ecuadorian Andes!

    Lungwort, Lobaria pulmonaria (or a relative that grows in tundra).

    The way back was lengthened by blustering winds and slanted drizzle. A pair of hikers approached us with news of a grizzly in the area. We found fresh berry scat among the rocks, and soon spotted its originator about 250 yards away up the next hill over. Although he could certainly smell and hear us, he was more interested in the blueberries he was eating, and he paid us no mind. We all watched him for a few minutes before increasing our distance and heading back to the road.

    The rocks, moss, and fog make an austere landscape.

    Lots of layers.

    A warm, dry hiker is a happy hiker!

    Once there, the real drudgery began. My soaked gloves seemed to gnaw at my soggy fingers, my scarf dripped water down my shirt, and my toes went numb. My rain pants had done nothing to protect against the damp: I could tell my leggings were wet as a sponge. We stamped our feet and huddled in a culvert, waiting for a green bus to save us, but the next one to pass had room for only two people. Jane and I started hiking up the road to keep warm. Eventually we all got on a bus going in the wrong direction, and the driver let us transfer when he passed a bus heading back to the entrance. It was a long, wet, muddy four hours back!

    I ran, barefoot and shivering, into the main visitor center’s bookshop for a book of Alaskan postcards, and we thawed back at our hotel with a microwaved tupper of chicken noodle soup and some Fred Meyer dumplings. Yummmmm…

    Two mountain goats?!

    End of day summary:
    • Day of road trip: 9
    • Start: Healy, Alaska, United States 
    • Miles traveled: 25 (Prius) + 116 (green school bus) 
    • Hours driven: 7.5 
    • Favorite bird sighting: willow ptarmigan 
    • End: Healy, Alaska, United States
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      Do Lichens Have Free Will? or Snowshoeing Congo Gulch

      Do lichens have free will?

      How do things as tiny as atoms and cells operate with so much complexity?

      Would an organism on the scale of the universe marvel at the complexity of tiny things like human beings or planets?

      These questions arose among the overnight snowshoers on Valentine's Day as we hiked a rather unsnowy mountainside and snowshoed up an icy road without lights. The crystalline fir boughs, hoarse ravens and wide starry night sky were a welcome respite from the grind of the semester, and they let our minds wander towards the existential.

      We stayed in Congo Gulch Cabin, owned by the U. S. Forest Service, in the Elkhorn Mountains of eastern Oregon.

      The adjacent Fremont Powerhouse was built in 1908 to produce more-affordable electricity for the local mines that were experiencing economic decline. Water was pumped through eight miles of steel and wood pipeline from Olive Lake to generate electricity until 1967, when the powerhouse was decommissioned and donated to the U. S. Forest Service as a historical landmark.

      The weather was oddly warm for February. It turns out we didn't need our snowshoes to climb the steep hillside behind our cabin. As we hiked, I got into some wonderful conversations. Allison and I pondered the meaning of free will: am "I" in control of my actions, or does my physiology control me? Are my physiology and I the same thing? Is the act of willing contained within the neurons that fire, and the endocrine and nervous systems that carry out desires? Does lichen, with no conscious mind, still have free will?

      It takes only fresh air, a forest, a lack of screens, and a little break from homework to get into the really fun questions of the world.

      Our first group photo turned out excellent. It was taken by the self-timer of my camera perched on a precarious platform of rocks and twigs.

      Our knowledgeable leaders told us that Ponderosa Pine bark smells like vanilla. Of course, we had to give it a try!

      The thick, scaly park has a reddish tint and deep grooves.

      The view from halfway up the mountainside was lovely.

      And the view from the top was breathtaking! The sunlight lit up the distant snowy peaks in a sparkling glow that's impossible to capture with a photo.

      I was collecting lichens during the hike, and at the peak I noticed all the lichens on the ground had been trampled. By what, I wondered? Then a pile of scat told the answer: elk.

      Elk scat.

      I noticed smaller pellets on our way back down the mountain. Deer scat, I am guessing.

      I did manage to find a few lichens, however. I got really excited about this one because it included ascocarps, the sexual reproductive structure of lichens. (Can you see the brown satellite-dish-shaped cups?) Also, its neon lime-green color was gorgeous! I identified this species as Letharia columbiana.

      My second lichen species turned out to be even more exciting! I brought this specimen back to the Whitman plant ID lab and scoured books and keys, trying to determine the species.

      Here's a photo of the lichen's "cup" taken by my iPhone through the lens of a dissecting microscope.

      The only species (out of hundreds) that fit my lichen was Cladonia multiformis, but the range listed for that species in my field guide did not overlap with any part of Oregon. What to do?! I e-mailed the book's author, Bruce McCune, with photos. He replied immediately: I was right! The true range must be larger than the one printed in the guide. I am now in love with lichens. :)

      In the evening, we finally got to the activity our trip was named for: snowshoeing!

      Used from Wikimedia Commons with permission from the Free Art License.
      I was expecting clunky wooden tennis rackets cris-crossed with leather... you know, the kind you might find hung over the door of an old mountain lodge.

      But modern snowshoes actually look like this! They're easy to strap on and walk in. Don't try to go backwards, though!

      We decided to walk up the icy road without lights so our eyes could adjust to the darkness. We stumbled into a couple ditches, but it was wonderful to be able to sense the trees, ground and sky without the blinding glare of a flashlight. 

      We marveled at the stars and constellations. We found Orion's belt (and then the rest of him) and spotted a reddish planet that might have been Venus. I saw two shooting stars but no satellites. I wonder why?

      Back in the cabin, a few dedicated fairies had prepared brownie scramble, the best wilderness desert in existence! We spent the night playing Settlers of Catan and Mafia, stoking the wood stove, and keeping our feet cozy in socks and slippers.

      The next morning we retraced our snowshoe path up the road, but this time we could admire the melting snow and sapling trees by sunlight.

      Baby tamaracks, Douglas firs, grand firs and ponderosa pines sprouted along the road like a nursery.

      I don't think I gave the group enough warning for our first attempt at a group self-timer photo...

      But the second time, we got it right!

      Most of us didn't know each other before we met in the Outdoor Program basement on Saturday morning. I loved getting to know each person as we played icebreaker games on the Whitman Lawn, drove four hours to the cabin, cooked, washed dishes, and raced to the outhouse through the frigid air. Every person brought energy and interest. I was lucky to experience the Elkhorns with such a group.

      As we prepared to leave, I noticed a clump of lush moss growing in the middle of a rushing stream.

      The moss was coated in ice! How did it manage to photosynthesize and prosper in its chilly bath?

      To end with a favorite image from the weekend: grassicles.

      Yum!
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