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Do Lichens Have Free Will? or Snowshoeing Congo Gulch

Do lichens have free will?

How do things as tiny as atoms and cells operate with so much complexity?

Would an organism on the scale of the universe marvel at the complexity of tiny things like human beings or planets?

These questions arose among the overnight snowshoers on Valentine's Day as we hiked a rather unsnowy mountainside and snowshoed up an icy road without lights. The crystalline fir boughs, hoarse ravens and wide starry night sky were a welcome respite from the grind of the semester, and they let our minds wander towards the existential.

We stayed in Congo Gulch Cabin, owned by the U. S. Forest Service, in the Elkhorn Mountains of eastern Oregon.

The adjacent Fremont Powerhouse was built in 1908 to produce more-affordable electricity for the local mines that were experiencing economic decline. Water was pumped through eight miles of steel and wood pipeline from Olive Lake to generate electricity until 1967, when the powerhouse was decommissioned and donated to the U. S. Forest Service as a historical landmark.

The weather was oddly warm for February. It turns out we didn't need our snowshoes to climb the steep hillside behind our cabin. As we hiked, I got into some wonderful conversations. Allison and I pondered the meaning of free will: am "I" in control of my actions, or does my physiology control me? Are my physiology and I the same thing? Is the act of willing contained within the neurons that fire, and the endocrine and nervous systems that carry out desires? Does lichen, with no conscious mind, still have free will?

It takes only fresh air, a forest, a lack of screens, and a little break from homework to get into the really fun questions of the world.

Our first group photo turned out excellent. It was taken by the self-timer of my camera perched on a precarious platform of rocks and twigs.

Our knowledgeable leaders told us that Ponderosa Pine bark smells like vanilla. Of course, we had to give it a try!

The thick, scaly park has a reddish tint and deep grooves.

The view from halfway up the mountainside was lovely.

And the view from the top was breathtaking! The sunlight lit up the distant snowy peaks in a sparkling glow that's impossible to capture with a photo.

I was collecting lichens during the hike, and at the peak I noticed all the lichens on the ground had been trampled. By what, I wondered? Then a pile of scat told the answer: elk.

Elk scat.

I noticed smaller pellets on our way back down the mountain. Deer scat, I am guessing.

I did manage to find a few lichens, however. I got really excited about this one because it included ascocarps, the sexual reproductive structure of lichens. (Can you see the brown satellite-dish-shaped cups?) Also, its neon lime-green color was gorgeous! I identified this species as Letharia columbiana.

My second lichen species turned out to be even more exciting! I brought this specimen back to the Whitman plant ID lab and scoured books and keys, trying to determine the species.

Here's a photo of the lichen's "cup" taken by my iPhone through the lens of a dissecting microscope.

The only species (out of hundreds) that fit my lichen was Cladonia multiformis, but the range listed for that species in my field guide did not overlap with any part of Oregon. What to do?! I e-mailed the book's author, Bruce McCune, with photos. He replied immediately: I was right! The true range must be larger than the one printed in the guide. I am now in love with lichens. :)

In the evening, we finally got to the activity our trip was named for: snowshoeing!

Used from Wikimedia Commons with permission from the Free Art License.
I was expecting clunky wooden tennis rackets cris-crossed with leather... you know, the kind you might find hung over the door of an old mountain lodge.

But modern snowshoes actually look like this! They're easy to strap on and walk in. Don't try to go backwards, though!

We decided to walk up the icy road without lights so our eyes could adjust to the darkness. We stumbled into a couple ditches, but it was wonderful to be able to sense the trees, ground and sky without the blinding glare of a flashlight. 

We marveled at the stars and constellations. We found Orion's belt (and then the rest of him) and spotted a reddish planet that might have been Venus. I saw two shooting stars but no satellites. I wonder why?

Back in the cabin, a few dedicated fairies had prepared brownie scramble, the best wilderness desert in existence! We spent the night playing Settlers of Catan and Mafia, stoking the wood stove, and keeping our feet cozy in socks and slippers.

The next morning we retraced our snowshoe path up the road, but this time we could admire the melting snow and sapling trees by sunlight.

Baby tamaracks, Douglas firs, grand firs and ponderosa pines sprouted along the road like a nursery.

I don't think I gave the group enough warning for our first attempt at a group self-timer photo...

But the second time, we got it right!

Most of us didn't know each other before we met in the Outdoor Program basement on Saturday morning. I loved getting to know each person as we played icebreaker games on the Whitman Lawn, drove four hours to the cabin, cooked, washed dishes, and raced to the outhouse through the frigid air. Every person brought energy and interest. I was lucky to experience the Elkhorns with such a group.

As we prepared to leave, I noticed a clump of lush moss growing in the middle of a rushing stream.

The moss was coated in ice! How did it manage to photosynthesize and prosper in its chilly bath?

To end with a favorite image from the weekend: grassicles.

Yum!
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Slime and Scales: the Herpetofauna of Florida

When people think Florida, they think alligators. The Everglades are home to a lot more reptile and amphibian species than just alligators -- but we'll start with the gators anyway, because they really are so cool!

The American Alligator


The first alligator we saw was swimming through the Wakodahatchee storm-water runoff ponds. His eyes looked like a submarine periscope.

That gator grin!

This elderly alligator needs a pair of dentures. I wonder how many white-tailed deer, Burmese pythons, and fellow gators his teeth are lodged in.


I used my camera to get an up-close look at this alligator's eyeball and was surprised to see that it was crawling with little red ants! (Can you see them?)

Alligator skin looks like an armored tank.

The paw of a resting dragon?

The alligators were tame and sleepy! Here my dad shows how close we could get without disturbing them.

Baby alligators are tiny. This one was resting on a lily pad!

For scale, those tiny green dots on this baby's back are duckweed.


An alligator, a tri-colored heron, and an expanse of sawgrass: the Everglades in one photograph.

Alligators seem lazy all day, but they're just storing their energy to hunt by night. This alligator was one of a dozen patrolling the pond at Anhinga Trail after dark.

The American Crocodile


Let's not forget that American alligators aren't the only crocodilian in the Everglades: there are also American crocodiles! Unlike alligators, crocs are endangered. They are more tolerant of saltwater, larger, and paler in color.

The best way to tell apart a gator and a croc is the teeth. It's hard to miss the exposed daggers of a crocodile smile.

Turtles

Dozens of turtle species call Florida home. Here's a sign I saw on our first day denoting four common species in the Everglades: Florida cooter, Florida red-bellied turtle, red-eared slider, and Florida softshell.


You can tell this guy is a Florida red-bellied turtle (Pseudemys nelsoni) even without seeing the red on his plastron (the lower shell). You just have to notice the two cusps on his upper beak (they look like vampire fangs!)

Here's another turtle, probably a Florida red-belly, sunning herself on the bank of a canal.

Watch for 13 seconds as one Florida soft-shell chases another and even takes a bite!

Lizards


We found this green anole (Anolis carolinensis) perched on a perfectly-matched green leaf in the middle of a sawgrass and spike rush prairie (which is actually a waterlogged marsh), many feet away form the nearest tree island.

There's his leaf, right in the middle. I wonder if he stays there all the time?

He let us get close enough to admire his intricate head scales.

Here my dad is photographing our patient green anole.


The invasive brown anole (Anolis sagrei) is more common, larger, and more aggressive than the native green anole. Here's a brown anole with a nice yellow pattern.

Here's a large mature male brown anole, sunning himself and his manly crest.

Now this is an interesting lizard: the Little Bahama Curly-Tailed Lizard (Leiocephalus carinatus armouri). They're abundant on the sidewalks and parking lots of West Palm Beach and Everglades City. The whole time I mistook them to be eastern fence lizards with oddly curly tails (to keep off the hot pavement?) but no, they're a species endemic to the Bahamas and introduced to West Palm, Florida in 1935 to rid the sugarcane crop of pests. Aren't they cute?

Another introduced species, the Mediterranean house gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus), was common on building walls at night. Do you notice a special guest in this photo? Incredibly, the gecko turned and ATE THE MOSQUITO OFF HIS OWN BACK just seconds after I took this photo!

Snakes


Sadly, the only snake I saw was long dead.

My dad got a nice video of a thin, brown vine snake, though!

Update: thanks to Mike VanValen of the one and only iNaturalist.com (see my rave below), we have now identified this snake as a peninsula ribbon snakeThamnophis sauritus ssp. sackenii.

Frogs


Nighttime is frog time, and our first frog was this HUGE, invasive Cuban treefrog (Osteopilus septentrionalis) crawling through the grass. My mom noticed his eyes reflecting the flashlight beam in the grass -- good spotting Mom!

Another Cuban treefrog, this one much smaller and with a dark brown splotchy pattern.

I want to digress for a moment here and draw attention to my favorite website of all time, iNaturalist. This website allows people from all over the world to upload photos and descriptions of the life forms they observe -- plants, animals, fungi, you name it. If community members agree with the identification of the species, the data becomes "research grade" and can be used to catalog the world's vast, poorly understood, and fast-disappearing biodiversity.

The neatest feature of iNaturlaist is the "ID Please" section, where I post photos of the species I can't identify. I posted this photo (which I had originally captioned as "mystery frog" and thanks for a response from Paul, a professional herpetologist with an iNaturalist profile, I can now share with you that this frog is indeed another Cuban treefrog!

A rather dry green treefrog (Hyla cinerea) clinging to the side of a big white metal box at the Flamingo Visitors' Center.

Now, no post about the frogs of Florida would be complete without a salute to this evil bird, the loggerhead shrike (Lanius ludovicianus). Shrikes are carnivorous, cunning predators. They catch their prey -- insects, birds, lizards, even small mammals -- and store it for later on sharp twigs and barbed wire fences. My mom and I had never seen a loggerhead shrike, so when we noticed this black-masked bird sitting atop a barbed-wire (!) fence, we pulled over and got out to explore. We scoured the barbed-wire for food caches and found....

Impaled frogs!!!

Skewered right through the throat!

Three different frogs!

I wonder what the loggerhead shrike did before barbed-wire fences??
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