Health Education, Health Articles, Health Blog

Outbreaks, Couch Surfing, and a Glowing Green Church

It was one of those perfect coincidences. I was reading a post on Names Across Nations (seriously, what a blog) in which the author, a previous Watson Fellow, stumbles across a university in her German host-city with an onomastics department. A whole department dedicated to her niche topic, the study of names and naming, and she didn't even plan it! Naturally, she meets with a professor there, and they have a three-hour conversation fueled by their mutual delight that someone else in the world is obsessed with names.

I thought to myself, I should really try to meet with some professors at the Universidade Federal do Mato Grosso do Sul (UFMS) before I leave. So, I Googled “zoonotic disease UFMS” and e-mailed the first five names for which I found contact information: three veterinarians, an ecologist, and a medical doctor. One of these professors replied saying, “I’ll be at a zoonosis conference on the exact days you’re in town. Why don’t we just meet there?”

Talk about luck! The conference was called DIERN: Doenças Infecciosas, Emergentes, Reemergentes, e Negligenciadas. Scientific language tends to be easy to understand in Portuguese because, like in English, its words stem from Latin. The conference’s name is a cognate: Infectious, Emerging, Reemerging, and Neglected Diseases.

A poster for DIERN, the Central-Eastern Conference on Infectious, Emerging, Reemerging, and Neglected Diseases. (Don't be confused by the dates; this must be a poster from last year.)

I read the conference program with glee, sent a Facebook message to everyone I knew from Campo Grande asking for a couch to sleep on, and bought a bus ticket to the city. The one thing I failed to do was actually register for the conference. I was waiting until the last day in case my plans fell through. (It’s a tricky gamble, this waiting game. Last month I paid ahead for a 5K race in Campo Grande, and then I had to skip it because I got invited to trap marsupials.) This time, my gamble did not pay off. When I finally tried to register, a red warning streaked across the screen: “registrations closed, conference full.” Gulp. Luckily, the conference organizers responded sympathetically to my pleading e-mail and welcomed me to attend anyway.

Marmelade, my champion backpack supplied by my champion North Face employee.

On Saturday morning, I stuffed Marmalade (my turquoise backpack) to bursting, said a tearful farewell to Lygia and Duca, and spent the day vaccinating cats and dogs against rabies in the town of Corguinho (more on that later). Then I took an evening bus into Campo Grande, a city of a million people and the capital of this cattle state.

Campo Grande from a skyscaper apartment.

I stayed the first night on the couch of my friend Renata. She was very enthusiastic about the Theo’s dark chocolate bars I gave her. Brazil exports cacao but, ironically, even “dark chocolate” here is mostly sugar and milk, so 70% cacao Theo’s bars from my neighborhood of Seattle are precious.

Dark chocolate from Fremont!

Here, Renata holds a rehabilitated roadside hawk as part of the falconry class she took me to last month.

The next morning, I took an Uber to Faculdade Medica (FAMED), the university’s medical school. My driver was a little confused when his map took him through a gate, down a cobblestone road, through a narrow dirt alleyway sprouting plants, and into a parking lot surrounded by walls of rusty sheet-metal. We had arrived at FAMED!

I had signed up for an all-day mini-course called, “Investigacãos de Surtos,” investigations of outbreaks. First we defined an outbreak: a higher-than-normal incidence of a certain disease over restricted space and time. Not to be confused with endemic disease (always present in a given zone), an epidemic (widespread in space and/or time), or a pandemic (affecting multiple countries or continents).

The four outbreak professors: Dr. Larissa, Dr. Adriana Lucena, Dr. Liana Blume, and Dr. Marcelo Wada.

I was excited to realize that epidemiology is detective work. (In fourth grade, I was obsessed with solving mysteries. After reading Harriett the Spy, I founded the American Mystery Association, drafted bylaws in which “a good attitude” was mandatory, and established the headquarters in my treehouse. The AMA charged 10 cents per mystery. Bonus: if I didn’t crack your case, you didn’t pay.)

Epidemiological mysteries are far more tantalizing than the kind I tackled, which usually involved finding lost household objects. In the world of disease, the mystery asks: what is the source of disease, and how can we stop it? Outbreaks involve three kinds of clue: people, place, and time. When epidemiologists catch wind of an outbreak, usually though a medical center’s report to the federal Ministerio de Saude (Ministry of Health), they scramble to collect their equipment and get to the field, wherever the outbreak is occurring.

Dr. Marcello explains how this map of cases in a Toxoplasmosis outbreak allowed the epidemeologists to locate the source at a water reservoir.

They start with the first clue, people, by tracking down every possible patient. Which people are getting sick? How many? Then then move to place by plotting cases on a map. The highest density of cases is the focal point, the probable source. Finally, they use a tool called an “epidemic curve” to understand time. For most diseases, we know the minimum and maximum incubation time (the shortest or longest time it can take a person to get sick after being exposed to a pathogen). By counting backward from the first and last cases of the outbreak, scientists can determine the period of time in which the disease’s source was infectious.

My attempt to estimate the time period during which an outbreak started, using an epidemic curve.

I imagine that many epidemiological mysteries are never solved, but we went through a couple case studies where the pathogen’s source was traced to a single batch of oranges at a Luau or the water reservoir of a town. In each case, the epidemiologists recommended public health actions to prevent a recurrence. How satisfying!

Outbreak students 2017!

When the mini-course ended, my day’s adventures had only just begun. I didn’t have any way to get from FAMED to the house of Giovana, a friend of Renata’s who’d agreed to host me for the next three nights. Without a SIM card or WiFi, I couldn’t call an Uber, nor could I walk three kilometers with all my earthly possessions on my back. So I asked around, and I found a friendly medical-student volunteer who agreed to give me a ride.

While I waited for him to finish cleaning, I talked with medical students and learned how different the higher-education systems are in Brazil and the United States. Here, high-schoolers take a national exam to determine which professions and universities they are qualified to enter. Many students then select the highest-ranked profession and school available to them. Theoretically, this system encourages a meritocracy by providing free college to any citizen who earns it, regardless of wealth. In reality, wealthy high-schoolers from private schools take most of the spots. The Brazilian system sounds rigid and status-driven to me, but I can’t say the United States does it any better. Another difference is that medicine is an undergraduate program in Brazil. Some of these students will be doctors by the age of 22!

Then my driver was ready, so I told him my address and we lurched through Campo Grande, his car dying at every stop sign. “It just started doing this today!” he told me, exasperated. He dropped me on the curb, restarted his poor car, and sputtered away.

I looked around to assess my situation: an iron fence, a locked gate, and curtained windows. It was after dark. I was an hour earlier than I’d told Giovana to expect me, and she obviously was not home. Across the street, a glowing green church had just started to attract people, so I walked over and asked if it was a public service. The man at the door gave me a puzzled look, but eventually I ascertained that I could attend. Turns out, it was Sunday! I sat myself down in a center pew, hiking boots dangling from Marmelade, DIERN name-tag around my neck.

The Catholic service was, in a word, Brazilian. The woman in charge had a black page-boy haircut and a microphone turned all the way up. We began by crowding outside to welcome Nossa Senhora Aparecida, the patron Mary of Brazil, who is always (in my experience) a statue wearing a long cloak. We danced and sang her onto the stage. It’s unclear if she was a new statue, or if this happens every week.

The service lasted for an hour-and-a-half of standing and kneeling, a music video, eruptions of applause, some scolding to open the word of God as often as we open our cell phones, and golden chalices. There was a ritual involving fire, holy water, and a Bible being fed to each in turn. There was singing, holding hands, and crossing across the head and shoulders.

According to one of the songs (which was in Portuguese, so take my translation with a grain of salt), Nossa Senhora Aparecida was a statue discovered in a certain Brazilian river by fishermen 300 years ago. Her name literally means “Our Lady Who Appeared.” She’s one of many worldwide “appearances of Mary” and the only official black Mary. The best parts of the service were sudden outbursts when the otherwise soft-spoken leader would blast into the microphone, “Let’s make some noise for NOSSA SENHORA APARECIDA!!!!” and we would all cheer like crazy for the statue.

After, I was approached by curious congregants. One asked, “Are you Brazilian?” but clearly knew the answer already. Another asked, “Were you at DIERN today?” Turns out, she works at the Ministry of Health with one of my classmates from the Outbreaks course. An elderly woman didn’t say anything, she just petted my hair and face and smiled at me.

Giovana greets the same  hawk Renata was holding above. I met Giovana at this falconry class, and then she let me stay at her house a month later. You never know when falconry classmate will reappaer in your life!

Giovana holds the roadside hawk.

I wove through the crowd and crossed the street. Giovana’s lights welcomed me through her window, a relief. I was ready for bed.
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Essays Published in Edge Effects and Camas

Now and then, I submit my writing for publication. Far less frequently, it gets published. Well, today was one of those rare days. Head over to Edge Effects to read my essay, "Cottonwoods in Concrete: A Call for Collaborative Survival among Ruins." Edge Effects is a fascinating digital magazine produced by the Center for Culture, History, and Environment at the University of Wisconsin, Madison.


If you're more a fan of print media, I invite you to check out Camas: The Nature of the West, a biannual literary magazine produced by graduate students at the University of Montana. My essay, "The Sea Star's Warning," was published in the Winter 2015 issue, which can be purchased for $5.


And to all of you who read Natural Selections, thank you for putting up with nearly 150 posts (so far) that never benefitted from the red pen of an editor! Are any of you writers? Have you submitted your writing to a magazine? Let me know in the comments :)
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Humans as Texts: Conservationists in Three Nations of the West

On Semester in the West, the Whitman College field program I completed in autumn 2016, our texts were not books, but the dozens of speakers who gave us their time and wisdom.

I once thought the West was contained within one country, the United States. And I thought a conservationist was someone who tried to save animals from extinction. Below are brief biographies of three of our speakers who challenged those ideas.

They are citizens of Mexico, the Diné (Navajo) Nation, and the Nimiipuu (Nez Perce) Nation, all of which compose the West. They fight to conserve things that matter, from language to habitat to the body parts of planet Earth. I hope they inspire you, as they did me. They remind us that there is an enormous diversity of ways to be good and be yourself.

Cross-posted from the Semester in the West blog.


Meet Our Speakers: Alejandra Calvo-Fonesca

November 18, 2016


“You’re going to have to swim!” These were the words of Alejandra “Alex” Calvo-Fonesca when our boat ran out of gas in Ciénega de Santa Clara, a vast marsh of recycled irrigation water in Sonora, México. Her mischievous smile told us she was joking, and she quickly produced a paddle with which to rescue us. Wildlife Survey Coordinator for ProNatura, Alex brims with enthusiasm for her job. “It’s like school,” she says. “I’m always learning. Sometimes I have a theory, and my coworkers know what’s going on in the place. We correlate the two and learn. That’s what I love.” When Alex majored in aquaculture at Universidad Autónoma de Guadalajara, she planned to design ornamental aquaria. Instead, she began working at a shrimp farm and surveying birds for ProNatura, a nonprofit that has been collaborating with governments and local communities to restore the Colorado River Delta since 1990. Now in her ninth year, Alex has risen from fieldwork to the office. “I knew nothing about biology when I started, but they provided a workshop,” Alex explains. She conducted vegetation and wildlife surveys, learning to identify marsh birds such as sora, least bittern, and the endangered Yuma clapper-rail by ear. Alex’s curiosity has earned her a vast and growing base of knowledge. She can point out native cattails and introduced cane, bird species in English and Spanish, and even the way out of a maze-like marsh when your boat runs out of gas.


Meet our Speakers: Valencia Edgewater

October 7, 2016


Valencia Edgewater is chíshí diné, of the Chiricahua Apache clan, from the Black Mesa region of the Navajo Nation. She teaches community-based Navajo language and culture classes near her home in Hardrock. In addition, she drives her own vehicle for a family-owned, non-emergency medical transportation company. After earning a master’s degree in bilingual bicultural education from Northern Arizona University, Valencia started using her training to pass on the Navajo language, which she began learning in childhood from her grandmother, to community members and visitors. Valencia teaches through immersion, speaking entirely in Navajo and focusing on ways of thought. Through gestures, images, and the natural environment, Valencia invites her students to learn. She begins a lesson with the sun, orienting her students to the cardinal directions of sunrise, sun passage, sunset, and the North Star. After only an hour of instruction, novice students can point out the directions of the sacred mountains, introduce themselves in Navajo, and ask others to do the same. As a mother of two boys, Valencia is committed to imparting Navajo language and culture to the next generation.


Meet Our Speakers: Allen Pinkham

September 3, 2016


“Son, do something for your people.” These were the words of advice left to Allen Pinkham, or Paaxat Higatin in the Nez Perce language, by his father. Pinkham is a Nimiipuu elder who has accomplished a great deal for his people, a vast family that includes salmon, deer, eagles, grizzly bears, wolves and insects. “Everything you see on this earth is your people,” Pinkham told us. “We have red blood just like them.” This concept, one of Pinkham’s “mythological truths,” was the basis for his 1999 book on Nez Perce fishing culture, Salmon and His People. Last year, Pinkham published a second book, Lewis and Clark Among the Nez Perce: Strangers in the land of Nimiipuu, to recount the famed explorers’ journey from his people’s perspective. As former Chairman of his tribal council, Pinkham fought to enact treaty rights, bring fish ladders to local hydroelectric dams, and reintroduce coho and fall chinook salmon to the Clearwater River. While he has won many battles as leader and activist, Pinkham’s greatest gift is his ability to weave together history and future through story-telling. He invited us to visualize our bodies as part of the earth, each finger representing a species. “When you lose the passenger pigeon, you lose your little finger,” he explained. Because we abuse ecosystems, we’re at risk of losing bison, salmon, and thousands of others. Wounded, fingerless hands seared across our imaginations. “The earth is squirming,” Pinkham concluded. “How much longer until we say, no more body parts lost?”
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When Our Gods Take Us Back: A Western Podcast and Epiphany

Blast from the past! My work from Semester in the West, a Whitman College field program I completed August through December 2016, has been published on the program's website.

Click here and scroll down to listen to my podcast, "A Lethal Take On Conservation."

It's an eight-minute journey with three conservationists who have come to terms with a paradox: sometimes to save a species, we must sacrifice an individual.

Click here to listen.

Then click here and scroll to watch the public reading of my epiphany, "When Our Gods Take Us Back."


The essay imagines the Sixth Mass Extinction through the lens of Diné (Navajo) cosmology.

Click here to watch.

They don't show up in the video, but this epiphany reading was paired with a slideshow of images from the semester. I'll include them here, and you can view them with the video as you like.











While you're on the website, I highly encourage you to listen to the epiphanies and podcasts of my fellow Westies. These people are articulate, compassionate, insightful, and a whole long list of things I admire. Every single one of their epiphanies gives me shivers. Seriously. Check them out.

Signe, Griffin, Sophie, Willa, Amanda, Hunter, Abby, Maggie, Thomas, Gardner, Kenzie, Evan, Hannah, Grace, Rachel, Elizabeth, Maya, Fields, Emma, Sarah, Ysa, Collin, and Phil: you've changed my life. I miss you, and I am thankful for you.
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The Watson So Far: A Two-Month Reflection on Life, Structure, and Eavesdropping through Science

As I approach the two-month mark of the Watson, it's time to reflect. I was reading a former Watson fellow's excellent blog, Names Across Nations, and I was struck by something she wrote: "I learned to give myself structure in an unstructured world; to redefine productivity."

These months have reminded me how much I live for structure and productivity. A walk in the woods is not merely a walk: I take photographs, collect plant samples, and write numbered lists of birds. I once explained to my friend Jules why I order Thai food that's one star too spicy: it helps me increase my spice tolerance and, I told her, "I like to be productive when I eat" (a quote that has come back to haunt me and make me laugh ever since). That urge can be helpful when it propels me to get out of bed and do something, but it also makes me feel dissatisfied with a simple day of cooking, reading, reflecting, and passing time with those around me.

I like structure so much that I consider my life to have a scaffold around it. When I feel lost, I prefer the metaphor of "rebuilding the scaffold" to something less tangible, like "finding myself." In the loose-ended time after college graduation, my friend Melanie and I used markers to draft a new Life Scaffold on a poster:

A depiction of our Life Scaffold.

By definition, the Watson Fellowship offers very little structure. I am learning how to build a scaffold that contains something between too much structure, and too little.

My most structured time here has been small-mammal trapping (see my post on that). Those were eight days when my morning alarm, bedtime, meals, and even water breaks were decided for me. I felt supremely productive because I was contributing to a doctorate thesis. There were expectations for my work, and I could withstand the sweaty, buggy conditions to meet them.

My least structured time has been the days when I stay home at Quinta do Sol, the forest preserve where I live, and just hang out. I sit under the waterfall in the creek, write blog posts, play a Brazilian game called "Bozo," and cook American dinners for my hosts, Duca and Lygia. On a special night, we might even watch Game of Thrones together. (Lygia has taken to calling my Cersei Lannister for "being a traitor" and "abandoning her" in search of marsupials. I told her I'm holding the Nutella hostage until she forgives me.) These quiet days leave me feeling antsy but also invigorated for the work of another day. I remind myself that sustaining friendships through food, TV, card games, and inside jokes is the business of a meaningful life.

The night I made Sloppy Joes for Duca and Lygia.

In between are the working days, when I interview local farmers about their pets' diseases, or the traveling days, like the time I took a bus to the city of Campo Grande to watch my friend Renata's falconry class and visit the Natural History Museum with Cyntia. These days feel full because I am in motion, but I often look back and wish I had more to show for them -- more photos, more blog posts, more conclusions to draw.

As I plan the rest of my time in Brazil and my upcoming move to Madagascar, my instincts pull me toward more structure. For me, the easiest course would be to volunteer with one scientist after another, following instructions and collecting data. Yet, I know that is not "getting the Watson right." Getting it right will entail a balance, a healthy dose of hanging out and cooking to complement the backcountry treks through rainforest and the written reports. I think the structure I should seek is not one where my day is planned for me, but an intangible scaffold for why I am here. By connecting my daily interactions to a greater mission, I will feel at peace with my time passing.

During my Watson interview, my interviewer Mr. Chaudhary asked about the dual nature of my proposal. I had planned to split my time between researchers (disease ecologists) and community members (farmers, fisherpeople, tourism managers, and others who interact with wildlife disease).

"Are you more interested in the scientists or the community members?" Mr. Chaudhary asked.

My response was that my interest is neither scientists nor local people, but the human-inclusive ecosystem. I want to understand how microbes travel through time, space, and the bodies of other organisms -- plants, humans, and other animals. I am curious about how microbes interact with us (the big "us" of living things) as they go. To understand the multiple components of an ecosystem, I need to experience both nature-built environments, like buriti-palm veredas and coral reefs, and human-built environments, like rabies-vaccination clinics and the shop where Ana sells beer and ice-cream from her living room. (I cringe to separate "nature-built" from "human-built" because there is no difference; the shop is just as natural as the inner chamber of a termite's nest, only it has been built by a primate rather than an insect. But because we lack precise vocabulary, and "non-human-nature-built" gets awfully clumsy, I'll leave it for now.)

A nature-built environment (buriti-palm vereda).

A human-built environment (bathroom behind the beer and ice-cream shop).

I see scientists as translators. I am clumsy in Portuguese, so I rely on Duca to translate the stories of farmers into English; I am also clumsy in the language of nature, so I rely on biologists like Cyntia and Alexine (and the many-talented Duca) to translate the tropical savannah into words for me. I cannot interview an Agile Gracile Opossum to ask its opinions on disease. Instead, I watch Cyntia gently anesthetize the small animal with ether, pluck a dozen ectoparasites off its fur, and store them in a vial of ethanol for yet another collaborator to identify under a microscope, months down the line. This translation is clumsy. I will probably never know what that particular opossum knew of disease. But I hope to someday read the thesis quantifying the ticks, fleas, and lice of Cerrado mammals, and I will know that little opossum contributed to the story.

A Gracile Agile Opossum gets sleepy in ether so Cyntia can collect its ectoparasites.

In the past two months, I have spent countless hours sitting through dinner parties where I understand barely a word. I would strain to catch a phrase of familiar Portuguese, and I learned to laugh when others laughed, but I had no idea what was going on. Suddenly, the group would be ready to leave, and I found myself rushing to gather my things because I had not been able to hear the change in tone that signaled the end of the conversation. Other times, I'd think I had understood a story, but later Duca would translate for me, and I'd realize I had misinterpreted it entirely. Living in a world where I don't speak the language leaves me unaware of the happenings around me. I miss important information, and I miss the colorful details, jokes, and tales that make life rich. As I have become proficient in Portuguese, these details have come flooding back, and I realize how deeply I crave the ability to not only see or hear things, but to understand them.

This experience with language tells me that science, our attempt at multi-species translation, is important. If we do not attempt to translate the foreign languages of other organisms, we may see nature, but we will not understand it. We will miss the signal that the dinner party is ending, and we'll miss the rich jokes and stories that remind us why all organisms deserve freedom from extinction.

This is the scaffold I am building. When I commit myself to a week of marsupials or a month of mouse-lemurs (up next in Madagascar!), I do so not just to fill my days with structure, but to use science as a translator for the organisms I cannot interview.

The Watson is not meant to be a research year, at least not in the typical scientific sense. Perhaps it is in the spirit of the poet of John Keats that Watson fellows are not encouraged to publish a paper or even quantify our learning in numbers. In 1817, Keats light-heartedly complained that Newton had "destroyed the poetry of the rainbow by reducing it to a prism." Keats's poem, Lamia Part II, expresses the accusation more fully:

. . . and, for the sage,
Let spear-grass and the spiteful thistle wage
War on his temples. Do not all charms fly
At the mere touch of cold philosophy?
There was an awful rainbow once in heaven:
We know her woof, her texture; she is given
In the dull catalogue of common things.
Philosophy will clip an Angel’s wings,
Conquer all mysteries by rule and line,
Empty the haunted air, and gnomed mine—
Unweave a rainbow, as it erewhile made
The tender-person’d Lamia melt into a shade.

So I feel a little guilty about the "cold philosophy" of the spreadsheets of data I've gathered from my interviews with local farmers. I feel guilty about running statistics and making graphs to quantify the risk of canine distemper virus spreading from domestic cats to pumas and jaguars, about comparing a tick's mouthparts to a field guide to determine its species. Am I unweaving the rainbow? Am I killing the poetry?

Ticks awaiting mouthpart measurements.

No, my scaffold tells me I am not. Keats feared that knowledge would undermine poetry, but to me science does not "empty the haunted air." The more I understand of marsupials' lives, the more mysteries unfold and deepen around me, the more haunted with wonder the air becomes. That a Gracile Agile Opossom weighs between 13 and 21 grams does not relegate it to a "dull catalogue of common things," because the catalogue of common things is anything but dull. Real, tangible, common things compose my world. In the spirit of Anna Tsing and Donna Haraway, common things make my world-making projects possible, and I theirs.

Perhaps the discipline of science with which Keats was familiar, physics, attempted to "conquer all mysteries by rule and line," but ecology works peacefully with webs of interactions, complexity, and maybe even chaos -- at least, the ecology in which I am interested.

Two days ago, I had a conversation with one of the most knowledgeable bird-watching guides I've had the pleasure to meet, Maris Benites. Maris not only knew the Latin and Portuguese name of every bird we glimpsed, but she also knew the name of a strange, worm-like Amphisbaena lizard and a squishy, narrow-headed Microhylidae frog. I asked her if she loves birds more than other species, and she said no, she likes reptiles and amphibians just as much. She can't love one kind of animal on its own, because she knows how important each species is for the others. But she focuses on birds because of their value for teaching. In fact, she is just starting her PhD on birds as environmental educators.

Maris listens to the language of Pantanal.

"Why are birds such good educators?" I asked Maris.

"Because they interact with everything else," she told me (in Portuguese, so bear in mind that my translation may not be accurate!) Various bird species depend on freshwater, old-growth trees, specific fruits, cover from predators, consistently-timed army-ant swarms... the list goes on. Without a functioning forest, we have no birds. Maris hopes to get people to appreciate the little brown birds in the brambles, not just the colorful ibises and storks, and from there she hopes people will discover an understanding of ecological complexity and a conservation ethic, even for those animals that have the potential to harm us or eat our livestock, like jaguars and eagles and mosquitoes.

Maris's conversation got me thinking about microbes. When we talk about jaguars, we treat them with both fear and curiosity. They have the power to kill us, but we still feel curiosity about their lives, amazement at their strength, and awe at their beauty. I have seldom seen microbes treated the same way. Once labeled as a pathogen (something that causes disease), an organism is treated as a "sacrifice zone," an enemy particle that can and should be destroyed because we fear it. Yet, when we consider interactions, this tactic becomes nonsensical. We cannot squish every microbe like we shot nearly every cougar, grey wolf, and grizzly bear. Microbes are too small. They hide in dessicated capsules, only to emerge decades later. They evolve in minutes. They reproduce exponentially when resources exist. Their ideal habitat (in many cases) is the warm flesh and blood of human bodies, a resource that is becoming more abundant every day. We cannot eradicate microbes, so we are stuck with the task of living with them.

Evolutionary medicine, in contrast to the individualized medicine we get at the doctor's office, focuses on the weaknesses (vulnerabilities) of hosts rather than the strengths of pathogens. As humans, our principal vulnerability is that our bodies are rich with nutrients, protected habitat, and moisture. What we call a "body," a microbe considers a "home." By recognizing this pattern, we open up a wide new space for understanding disease. We can compare our bodies to thousands of other examples across ecology: soil that is home for termites, novateiro trees that are home for ants, ant nests that are home to fungus. We can look to evolved examples in which one organism becomes host for another and, instead of succumbing to disease, it thrives.

This tree, the novateiro (Triplaris americana) has a close symbiosis with ants (Pseudomyrmex triplarinus). The tree's name translates to "newcomer tree" because when a hapless tourist brushes the trunk, the ants swarm out to defend their home.

The ants live inside the trunk, feed on substances produced by it, and enter through small pores in the bark. This home may seem inanimate to the ants, but it is the body another organism, larger and slower but equally alive.

Here is another species of tree, populated by another species of ant.
This mutualist perspective leads to a change in the question of medicine. Instead of asking, "How can we avoid the pathogens?" we might ask, "How can be become better hosts for microbes?" Some quick answers might include populating our gut with diverse bacteria, limiting the use of systemic antifungals, and maybe even reintroducing parasitic worms. I hesitate to give these examples, because I do not want to close the conversation, but open it wider. What does it really take for a novateiro tree to make peace with a family of ants swarming up and down its veins every day? Do the ants ever take too much from their tree and kill it? Does the tree ever get tired of its guests and kick them out? How did the mutual trust for such an arrangement evolve?

Science does not take the mystery out of such happenings. It attempts, clumsily, to translate the languages in which other organisms are fluent, to the language we can read, that of numbers and words. I hope to learn this language with enough proficiency so I can not only understand the shouts, but so I may begin to eavesdrop on the whispered things, the inside jokes between ants and microbes and trees.

With that in mind, I think I'll go analyze the data from my last thirty interviews, and maybe write another blog about the species of amphibians I've seen. But I'll also take time to sit still, read a few pages of The Invention of Nature, and cook squash pappardelle for Duca and Lygia. Plus, I'm on deck to make brownies tonight, and we have an episode of Game of Thrones to watch.

This day will be productive, at least by my new working standards. And I trust that the scaffold will be built, piece by piece, as the day goes on.

Dad's Daily Bug

A butterfly on water flowers in the Paraguay River, drain of Pantanal.

Mom's Daily Bird

A young southern screamer pokes around in mud next to its four siblings and two parents.

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Marsupial Trapping in Bonito

If I told you I spent eight days in the forest capturing nocturnal marsupials, where would you think I was working? Probably Australia, the land of marsupials, where eutherian mammals (those that use placentas to transfer nutrients to a growing fetus) never arrived. But Australia is not the only place marsupials call home.

The small-mammal-trapping team, from left to right: Cyntia, Mariane, me, and Gabriel.

Brazil is home to many marsupial species, and I got to meet two of them as a volunteer with Cyntia Cavalcante Santos's small-mammal-trapping team. Cyntia is finishing data collection for her PhD. Her field work consists of spending a week at a time in the dry, tick-infested forests and sunny, cattle-infested pastures near Bonito, where the native ecosystem is a combination of Mata Atlantica (Atlantic forest) and Cerrado (tropical savannah).

Her plan is to complete six transects in each of eighteen locations, and she walks every transect four times: once to set out traps, and three times to check what hapless little mammals were attracted by the smell of juicy fruit overnight. She wakes at four in the morning and starts bushwhacking before sunrise. Did I mention she also walks a kilometer along each transect to collect scat and photograph tracks in the dirt?

If you do the math, that adds up to... a lot of sweat! And a lot of sweat bees to drink it.

While we prepared traps at the truck, we were covered in so many sweat bees, we could barely breath without snorting one up the nostril. These little guys tickle, and they are not fun to respire, but they neither sting nor bite.

I was lucky to accompany Cyntia on her fifteenth transect, along with two first-year college students from Dourados, Mariane and Gabriel. We walked the transects and set up two kinds of live trap: open-mesh Tomahawks on the ground, and folding metal Shermans on tree branches. We baited each trap with a fragrant chunk of pineapple or banana, then left them in place overnight in hopes that a nocturnal mammal would be lured inside.

Mariane models one of our Sherman traps for arboreal mammals.

Cyntia's goal is to understand how human land-use is affecting the habitats and ranges of mammals in the Cerrado. Here, native vegetation is being converted to cattle pasture at an alarming rate. I've seen it happen before my eyes. Primary forest is logged and burned. The remaining wood is gathered into piles to continue drying, so it can be burned later. The bare red dirt is plowed and planted with braquiária (Brachiaria brizantha), an African grass used for cattle pasture.

Real-time deforestation near Bonito. Notice the piles of burned wood, the plowed red dirt, and the intact forest on background hills.

After the ground is plowed, ranchers create uniform berms of dirt to prevent rain from eroding their land downhill into the creeks and rivers. These raised stripes can be seen years later, once grass has filled in the pasture. This tactic can be viewed as dedication to "the environment" because is preserves topsoil and reduces sediment pollution in rivers, but retaining soil is not the same as retaining species. Compared to primary forest, the difference is slim between a pasture, a pasture with berms, and an asphalt parking lot -- at least in terms of biodiversity. That's how it seems to me, anyway. Cyntia's research will tell us how pastures and cornfields really compare to forest.

Erosion-control berms give the pasture a striped appearance.

A male rhea stands alone in corn stubble, booming out low-frequency calls in front of a tragically-small forest fragment.

Not only are cattle the proximal cause of deforestation... these horned zebus are also a formidable obstacle to scientists walking through pasture!

Cyntia documents the vegetation of a mountainous "open" transect, a euphemism for steep-sloped pasture. A cow mopes in the distance.

Another effect of cattle on land: hummocks! Shoutout to Collin's thesis.

Sun rises over rolling green hills, the landscape we evolved to love in African savannas and now transplant onto every continent (at least, according to the evolutionary hypothesis of environmental aesthetics.)

We didn't capture any mammals our first day, in the pasture or the forest, but there was still much to be learned from the landscape, and many challenges to overcome.

Cyntia points out a young manduvi, the species of tree where endangered hyacinth macaws make 90% of their nests. The macaws nest in cavities excavated by woodpeckers in old-growth trees, at least fifty years of age. You can imagine how forest fragmentation quickly breaks down this evolved interdependence among species.

The ripe fruit of manduvi.

A saprophytic plant, nearly identical to the northern groundcone I saw last summer in the temperate rainforest of Alaska. I have no idea what this plant is, though, because the groundcone genus (Boschniakia) lives only in western North America.

Cyntia poses with native bamboo. We played music on the stems, hard as wood and hollow as a straw. Each stem was a different diameter and emitted its own note.

One morning, I was renewing the fruit-bait in the traps by myself when I noticed that a swarm of black ants had taken over one of the Shermans. The ants moved slowly, almost leisurely, along the branch. They were huge, but not the gargantuan size of a bullet ant. Their black color was matte, not shiny, and their limbs seemed substantial, as if the ants were molded plastic instead of chitin exoskeleton. Each of their faces was covered by a flat shield, from under which glowed a ruby-red light. If ever I have encountered alien robots, these were them.

The ants milled around the trap with confidence, but no hurry.

I watched, entranced. When two ants encountered one another, they paused for an intimate greeting of entwined antennae. I assumed the ants had been attracted by fruit, but when I finally looked inside the trap, the pineapple chunk was intact and abandoned. The ants didn't like pineapple. So why were they here?

A rubber-band-chewer hard at work.

Upon closer inspection, I realized that many of the ants were intently chewing the rubber bands I'd used to attach the Sherman trap to its branch. "Can they digest rubber?" I wondered. The ants reminded me of municipal road-workers, called out after a windstorm to rapidly clear the streets of downed trees. Later, Cyntia told me my analogy was spot-on. These ants "own" specific trees in the forest, and they guard them jealously from epiphytes, bee hives, leaf-eating insects and, apparently, small-mammal traps. The ants were actively removing our trap.

I marvelled at their intelligence. Surely they had never encountered rubber bands or metal before -- how did they know to focus on chewing the rubber bands? One patrol ant must have encountered the out-of-place object and called for backup. I imagine the crew biting on all parts of the trap and scratching their antennae about what to do. Finally one ant bites the rubber and finds it softer. How did that ant communicate its discovery to the rest? Did they argue before they settled on the band-chewing plan? How did they organize into band-chewers and sentries? What messages do they send through entwined antennae, invisible pheromones, or vibrations?

In my excitement to photograph the ants, I accidently bumped into the trap. I jumped back, expecting the ants to swarm with speed and anger, but they did the opposite. They became absolutely stationary. Now, the illuson that they were plastic ant toys became inescapable. I waited for them to resume their walking, greeting, and chewing, but after five minutes I gave up and walked away from the red-eyed robots, frozen in place as if time itself had stopped.

Unfortunately for me, time had not stopped, and I had to run to finish baiting the rest of my traps!


Another highlight of the trapping project was getting to meet the people whose land we were surveying. As I explained in my recent post, Vale do Bugio: Tourism as a Tool to Protect Private Ecosystems, most Brazilian land outside of the Amazon is private. That can be tricky for researchers who seek to understand ecosystem-wide phenomena. It means that mammalogists must be both expert scientists and expert socializers.

Cyntia began each day by greeting the landowners, explaining her project, offering a glossy Wildlife Conservation Society magazine about Cerrado research, and making small talk about just about everything.

We spent over an hour meeting Seu Claudio, an elderly farmer whose five children have grown and moved away. His brown skin wrinkled around his eyes, his arms were strong and lean, and his smile alternated between teeth and gaps. His eyes spilled tears when he told us that his wife, Donna Maria Rosa, had passed away one year and five months before. He pointed out the blackboard on his front porch where he had written a voltage equation for the electric fence and a note to his late wife: "PARABENS!! PELO SEU DIA DAS MAES," happy Mother's Day. His loneliness, loss and love were plain to feel.

Claudio accompanied us on our hot, dusty hike up his thorny mountain to set out the traps. The next day, I noticed that his blackboard had been updated to include our four names at the bottom: "Gabriel - Nina - Dr. Cyntia - Mariane." He filled us an enormous bag with lemons from his garden and thanked us for the magazine, which he'd read cover-to-cover the night before.


Making social connections with private landowners can be a burden to scientists in Brazil, drawing down precious hours for fieldwork and data analysis. But I also see an enormous value in these relationships forged between academics and farmers. Conversations foster compassion and curiosity. Maybe these human connections will help keep the country from polarizing. Production, subsistence and livelihood need not be antagonists of biodiversity, conservation and science. All humans need both food and a functioning biosphere to survive.

Over the next week, we managed to capture six marsupials of two species, from both forest and pasture landscapes. One was the catita (gray short-tailed opossum, Monodelphis domestica).

Why leave the trap when it feels so safe?

She acted just like my sister's pet mouse, Cleo, when we brought her home to her new cage.

The second was cuíca-graciosa (agile gracile opossum, Gracilinanus agilis), an arboreal marsupial with a curly tail, thick black eye makeup, and translucent ears.

Here, Cyntia weighs the cuica in a plastic bag. She will also measure its limbs, collect its ectoparasites, and preserve its feces in alcohol.

"Look, Mom, I can fly!"

When we released the mammals back into the forest, they often took a few minutes to leave the trap.

I was amazed at how they sniffed, explored, and observed their surroundings just like a pet mouse or a human. I've never spent much time around small mammals, preferring reptiles, fish, and birds, but it was heart-warming to notice the similarities between me and my cousins.

True to its arboreal nature, the cuica shot straight up the first acuri palm it came to.

And then it watched us. 

As a tangent, check out the Wikipedia page for this species and see if you recognize the photos! When I checked Wikipedia to find this species's English name, I realized the page had no photo. Always a joy to contribute to the world of free-use online media!

Cyntia photographs the hoof-print of a deer.

Small mammals aren't Cyntia's only interest. She wants to know how all mammals are using Cerrado landscapes, but those pesky jaguar and peccary don't fit inside Tomahawks, so Cyntia uses a different kind of trap: cameras.

After a week of small-mammal trapping, I volunteered to stay behind with a soon-to-be-Master's-student, Renata. Along with Almir, the university driver, we collected fifteen motion-triggered cameras set out a month earlier. As you might expect, half the cameras faced cornfields and pastures, while the other half were nestled among native acuri palms and bamboo stands.

It was a marathon day, and we only paused for soupy tuna sandwiches at three in the afternoon. The sun was setting, we had fourteen cameras in the truck, and we were feeling good, until...

"What's that buzzing?" asked Renata as we got near the fifteenth camera. Yup, small wasps called marimbondas had built a hive in the camera box. Renata tried whacking the box to get the wasps to leave, but that trick only works with ants and mice. These wasps got angry. They swarmed out and stung Renata on the knuckle.

Plan B: get Almir! I remembered back to my high-school bee-keeping days, when we used smoke to calm the bees before stealing their honey. What could we use to make smoke? I suggested paper, but Almir had bigger ideas. He found a can of air freshener in the truck, and he improvised a blow-torch by lighting the scented aerosol on fire with a cigarette lighter.

Almir wields a flower-scented blow torch.

He didn't calm the wasps with smoke. He incinerated them with flames.

Renata looks on from a safe distance as dusk sets in.

It did the trick. Once enough wasps were vaporized, we stuffed the camera in a feed-sack and tied a tight knot. Back at the lab, Renata threw the whole buzzing mess in the freezer. An hour later, we opened it up to find sluggish (but very alive) wasps and a papery apartment complex filled with larvae and honey.

The marimbondas had built a veritable city in our camera. I was sad to destroy it.

As if the poor camera had not been through enough, we doused the hive in insecticide and pried out the hexagonal architecture with a butter knife. Finally, the camera was liberated. We expect many photos of... wasps.

Renata, victorious with insecticide in hand, after a long day.

Me, exhausted with butter knives in hands, after a very long and wonderful week.


Best of luck on your doctorate, Cyntia! Thanks for including me in your science!

Dad's Daily Bug

This flying red beetle chews on the leaves of acuri palms, leaving jagged topiaries in the woods.

Mom's Daily Bird

A social flycatcher on a termite mound. Not to be confused with the lesser kiskadee, great kiskadee, or boat-billed flycatcher, which all have similar patterns but different sizes of bill!
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