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The Wildlife of Honolulu International Airport

Christmas Eve traditions made way this year for a new adventure: Hawaii.

We had a layover at Honolulu International Airport on O'ahu where we found a courtyard filled with anoles, geckos, and lots of little birds.

Red-vented bulbul.

Red-crested cardinal.

Spotted dove.

Female house sparrow.

Brown anoles were everywhere!

Impossible to catch but easy to photograph.

I had to poke around in stacks of stepping stones to find the slumbering, nocturnal geckos (my favorite!)

I found about ten mourning geckos, Lepidodactylus lugubris.

I was going to check under this faded traffic cone, but I didn't need to lift it! This little gecko was hiding in the top.

She looks like either a house gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus) or an Indo-Pacific gecko (Hemidactylus garnotii) but I cannot for the life of me figure out which one she is!

Lisa and Gecko made friends.

She changed color from pale white to variegated brown in an instant.

My family members in their natural habitat.

A short island-hop later, we made it to our destination: the oldest, greenest inhabited Hawaiian island, Kauai! This island is divided into four sections.

Photo credit: www.hawaiicity.com

The South Coast is the sunniest region, and the best for swimming in the winter months due to kinder currents. It's where most dive shops and resorts are housed.

The East Coast includes the airport in Lihue, where we landed, as well as the towns of Nawiliwili, Kapa'a, and Wailua.

The North Coast, where we're staying, is known for rain. (We couldn't bear to miss our Seattle weather over winter break! But the showers here come and go in five minutes, and the droplets feel like a warm shower.) The north side is also famous for its lush green jungle (Jurassic Park was filmed here) and its rugged, rocky shoreline called the Na Pali Coast. The town on this side of the island is named Kilauea, and the well-kept-but-outdated-feeling, golf-course-focused tourist hub where we're renting a condo is called Princeville.

The West Coast is the enigma: only a few miles from the end of our road, but due to geological barriers, the road doesn't go through. To reach sites like Waimea Canyon on the west, we'll have to circumnavigate the island, a journey that takes around two hours.

See you tomorrow!
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Green Friday on Lizard Hill

My dad and I took off the day after Thanksgiving for our own Green Friday adventure to Lizard Hill, a growing-up Christmas tree farm on the Kitsap Peninsula.

The moon was out, and the sky so clear we could see the snow-lined crevasses on the Olympics and the Cascades.

Pelagic cormorants (shown) and double-crested cormorants were abundant on pilings.

I had no idea there was an Atlantic salmon fish-farm named American Gold Seafood on Bainbridge Island! The gulls, however, are well aware.

California sea lions love those buoy haul-outs.

The moist, exposed dirt of Lizard Hill's old roads is the perfect substrate for lichens, such as this freckle pelt (Peltigera britannica).

This cup lichen is one of numerous Cladonia species.

Frog pelt lichen (Peltigera neopolydactyla)?? I'm having fun trying to identify these lichens. The best reference I've found for pelt lichens in the Pacific Northwest is Jason Hollinger's webpage -- if you're ever in the woods with a pelt lichen quandary, I suggest you check it out!

 
Lipstick powderhorn (Cladonia macilenta).

Forking bone lichen (Hypogymnia inactiva). We were lucky to find this on a twig, blown down from high in the trees. I've never seen a lichen like this before!

 I saw several song sparrows and heard from many more. This one defended his territory valiantly against two small, chipping Pacific wrens.

While my dad and I were away from our car, a sly coyote left us this present. Best of all, my dad stepped in it a few minutes later!

We found a wind-felled Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) in the road and decided to adopt her as our Christmas tree.

On our way home, we stopped at Belfair State Park to check out the shoreline. We found lots of killdeers making their two-note keen.

The river was filled with decaying salmon carcasses and one live individual who looked not long for this world.

The salmon attracted a family of bald eagles and countless glaucous-winged gulls.

It was a seaside feast!

The beach was signed for oyster harvesting, but we found only shells. Most marine invertebrates use calcium carbonate (also called calcite) to build their shells and skeletons, but the crystal structure of calcite varies. Crustaceans (crabs, lobsters, and barnacles) use low-magnesium calcite. Corals and molluscs (like this oyster) use aragonite, which is twice as soluble in water than low-magnesium calcite. That's why scientists are worried that corals and molluscs are at heightened risk of dissolving as oceans acidify. But echinoderms (sea stars, sea cucumbers, sea urchins and sand dollars) build their skeletons out of high-magnesium calcite, which is THIRTY times as soluble as low-magnesium calcite! So,  if you're a sea star... drink an extra glass of milk a day?

A pied-billed grebe was hanging out at the Bremerton Ferry Terminal.

These huge plumose sea anemones (genus Metridium) remind me of cauliflower. (Can you find the photographer?)

A female red-breasted merganser joined the party.

This male surf scoter rocks the clown make-up.

On the ferry, this brave boy made friends with a hungry glaucous-winged gull.



Mount Rainier emerged to welcome us back to Seattle as the sun set behind the Olympics. Thanks, Dad, for the awesome Green Friday adventure!

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If You Can Hear Me in the Elevator, Remain Calm: Our LAST DAY on the Alaska Road Trip!

Our last day!

We were eating breakfast in the cafeteria, expecting another leisurely day aboard the Malaspina, when we noticed a metropolitan area out the window. We were arriving in Bellingham already! (Pacific Time is one hour behind Alaska Time, and we had been chugging along with gusto all through the night.)

The last words we heard on the ferry, spoken by our friend the purser over the loudspeaker as crowds of passengers hauled luggage down to the car deck, were these: “If you can hear me in the elevator, we know you are stuck in there. Remain calm. The engineers are on their way.”

Don’t worry – they got the elevator working, and we all left the ferry intact. The hour-and-a-half drive from Bellingham back to Seattle flew by in the blink of an eye, and before we knew it, we were parking a muddy Prius in front of our house.

Three badass ladies made it home.

Unpacking and story telling commenced immediately. We ate tuna-fish sandwiches for lunch with ingredients from a real refrigerator and our own garden. We changed into city clothes, hosed off Prius, and checked the odometer. The total mileage of our grand adventure: 4,189 miles, with an average gas mileage of 45 mpg. Not bad, red Prius, not bad at all.

Hosed off, packed, and ready for college! (We're off to Whitman tomorrow.)

Looking back, we saw a total of 113 bird species (about 10 lifers for each of us), 21 mammals, and 1 amphibian (the wood frog, Alaska’s only amphibian).

The people we met, the lichens we trampled, the dirt we accumulated, the wildlife we watched… the back-country food and unexpected detours… all will make up the stories my mom and I tell for many years to come. Thank you for reading along, commenting with bird identifications, sharing our blog with friends, and joining us on our Great Alaskan Road Trip.

Yours in adventure,
Nina and Jane

THE END


End of day summary:
  • Day of road trip: 18 
  • Start: Malaspina ferry (Queen Charlotte Strait), British Columbia, Canada 
  • Miles traveled: 195 (ferry) 
  • Hours driven: 1.5
  • Favorite bird sighting: common murre
  • End: Seattle, Washington, United States
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    Look's Like the Ventilation's Busted: Day Eighteen on the Alaska Road Trip

    Today belongs to the wildlife. I woke up to a foggy morning filled with the barnacled backs of humpback whales. I was too absorbed to take any photos, but not to worry -- I got plenty of pictures during the day.

    First there were the mammals...

    Harbor seal haul-out.

    Pod of orcas!

    WEEE!

    Male and female orcas in a playful feeding frenzy (just guessing here).

    Sea lions, harbor porpoises, and Dall’s porpoises also made the list.

    And then there were the reptiles.... (Did I say reptiles? I meant... reptiles! Yes, birds are technically considered reptiles these days.)

    Pelagic cormorants.

    Rhinoceros auklet. 

    Common murres.

    A bunch of common murres.

    I guess that's why we call them common!

    We also saw a herring gull, bald eagle, raven, pigeon guillemot, Canada goose, glaucous-winged gull, mew gull, Bonaparte’s gull, belted kingfisher, crow, and the good old rock pigeon.

    I caught up on some blogging.

    My favorite office, the sun deck.

    The trees are getting mossier as we motor south.

    We got in line for lunch in the ship’s cafeteria, but after a few minutes we had to stumble outside for a gulp of fresh air. The cafeteria was filling up with smoke! We looked around for a sign that we should be worried, but the workers just fanned the smoke away from their faces and kept taking orders. The line piled up, the smoke billowed out, and controlled mayhem ensued.

    One chef took charge and began hollering for people halfway down the line to place their orders.

    “Whadaya want?!"

    “Fish and chips!”

    “Fish and chips? You’re number six! NEXT?”

    “Chicken strips!”

    “You’re number four! NEXT?”

    “I don’t know yet!”

    “Well ya better decide!”

    I ended up winning the last order of fried oysters. I took my prize up to the front, eager to leave this smoky hell. The lady at the cash register, suffused in a yellowish-gray cloud, took my money.

    “Hmm. Looks like the ventilation’s busted,” she noted without glancing up.

    I guess you learn to take things in stride when you work on the Alaska Marine Highway.

    A lavender hue before sunset.

    Passengers retreated to their solarium chaise lounges when the sky began to spit.

    Our last sunset on the Great Alaskan Road Trip.

    End of day summary:
    • Day of road trip: 18
    • Start: Malaspina ferry (Ketchikan), Alaska, United States 
    • Miles traveled: 390 (ferry) 
    • Hours driven: 0 
    • Favorite bird sighting: rhinoceros auklet 
    • End: Malaspina ferry (Queen Charlotte Strait), British Columbia, Canada
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